Every weekend, Yangiabad Bazaar comes to life in Tashkent — the largest flea market in Central Asia, which can be called a real museum of the Russian exodus from Central Asia. This place in the industrial zone of Tashkent has preserved the spirit of bygone eras, uniting people and things with a unique history.
- What makes the Yangiabad market in Tashkent a place where the past meets the present?
- What is sold here, who buys it and why?
- Why do not only locals flock here, but also foreigners, including Chinese collectors?
- What stories are hidden behind ancient chapans, suzanis, carpets and even mummified bears?
- Why do locals often neglect their cultural treasures, while foreigners are willing to pay huge sums for them?
- How is the market developing against the backdrop of tourism, new realities and strict bans on the export of cultural property?
Daryo editorial team went to this unique market to find answers to all these questions. You can watch the video report here:
History of Yangiabad: from Tezikovka to the present day
The predecessor of Yangiabad was the legendary Tezikovka, a market that was formed during the Great Patriotic War. The name of the market is associated with the area behind the railway, known as Tezikova dacha after the merchant Ivan Tezikov who owned it.
This flea market became part of history when Tashkent turned into the center of the Russian evacuation, accepting about a million settlers, including celebrities such as Anna Akhmatova and Faina Ranevskaya. Many, in order to survive, began to trade things from abandoned apartments, and Tezikovka turned into a center for trading everything: “from chewing gum to pistols and books on white and black magic” (A.I. Solzhenitsyn).
In the 1990s, the market became a place where emigrants sold off their belongings en masse before leaving, when the exodus of Russians from Uzbekistan began. Tezikovka was transformed into Yangiabad Bazaar gradually - in the early 2000s, the authorities moved the market, which occupied the territory of abandoned warehouses on the outskirts of the city. So the Tezikovka market was named Yangiabad Bazaar. Unfortunately, by that time, resellers and racketeers had appeared here.
Modern Yangiabad: a market of rarities and antiques
Today, Yangiabad attracts traders and buyers from not only Tashkent but from around the world. Here you can find everything: from antiques to industrial equipment. What draws people to this place is not only the goods that are sold here but the share scale of the market. Despite its popularity, opinions about the bazaar are divided:
- Nostalgia for Tezikovka: some believe that Yangiabad has lost the flavor of the old Tezikovka.
- Practicality of Yangiabad: others are sure that the current market is more convenient and functional. You can still find the things you need here.
- Avoiding the market: others avoid this place altogether, calling it unacceptable for a decent person, for them visiting Yangiabad seems unsafe or unpleasant
For those that are visiting Uzbekistan, this place remains an exotic and unforgettable experience, but, as the visitors themselves admit:
“I’m unlikely to want to repeat this experience,” said one of the visitors to the market.
Atmosphere of Yangiabad Bazaar
Nevertheless, the atmosphere of the bazaar is unique: here you can find everything from rare animals (parrots, cats of all breeds, fish and even endangered hedgehogs), food, medicinal herbs, such as camel thorn, to spare parts for cars and trains, special equipment and repairs.
What do they sell at Yangiabad?
You can find unique items at the market:
- Antiques and rarities: Particularly interesting are the stalls with crystal, antique dishes and rare items. For example, an antique iron or unique railway wheels, rare books.
- Railway parts: for example, wheels from construction cranes.
- Junk: piles of scrap metal, former factory equipment; decommissioned equipment, such as safes and ATMs, car parts: engines, tires - all this is waiting for its buyer.
- Household appliances: outdated, but still in demand models; used machines, motors.
- Electronics and gadgets: used and new phones from old models to smartphones, often of dubious origin; spare parts for electronics: boards, batteries, cables.
- Soviet electronics: TVs, radios, players; chargers for all types of devices, wires, terminators, adapters, plugs and more.
- Decommissioned equipment: for example, computers that can be disassembled into parts.
- Animals: In a separate area you can see rabbits, hedgehogs and peacocks. There are also exotic aquarium fish, and chickens, and geese, and Labradors, and sphinxes. Also available are rare pheasants and even sand boas. You can also buy everything you need for your pets, including cages, food and accessories.
- Second-hand: clothes from European sales; military uniforms: army pea coats, boots, uniforms; leather goods: belts, jackets, bags and shoes.
- Books: The book stalls have odes by Derzhavin, collections of fairy tales and jokes, Russian-Uzbek and Uzbek-Russian dictionaries in Cyrillic and Latin, a two-volume history of Tajikistan and translations of Pushkin; textbooks and manuals: on strength of materials, drawing and even magic.
What else can you find? Coins and stamps; kitchen utensils (pots, frying pans, antique meat grinders); hunting equipment (knives, camouflage, flashlights); fishing tackle and rods; craft materials (fabrics, ribbons, paints); toys (Soviet cars, dolls, puzzles); watches and jewelry (bracelets, rings, wristwatches); furniture and utensils: wooden chairs, dressers, chests.
One of the sellers shares some information with on some of her goods:
“For example, this vase – it’s called “Nikivaza”. It was brought to us, but sometimes we find such things ourselves,” the seller shares. “We are asking 150,000 soums for it, maybe we’ll lower it to 120,000. It has its own history, although I don’t know all the details. They say it’s an antique from India, a bronze vase, it’s been around for many years,” she adds.
Paintings and tapestries: works by Soviet and local artists, embroidered carpets decorate the display cases and counters.
“The Bukhara doctor Avicenna recommended yozhatina in ancient times,” one of the sellers commented on the assortment of the market.
Problems of Yangiabad: Stolen goods and a ban on photography
Yangiabad Bazaar is a place with a unique atmosphere, but not without its own difficulties. Among the many traders, there are resellers and racketeers (extortionists, blackmailers). Nevertheless, visitors continue to flock here in search of rare goods. Yangiabad Bazaar is known for its difficult reputation. At the entrance, there is a warning about the ban on photography and video shooting. The reason for this is clear:
- Stolen goods are sold here, including mobile phones.
- Sellers are afraid of publicity and inspection.
Visitors should be careful, especially in some remote parts of the market, where trading resembles an exclusion zone.
Chinese collectors at Yangiabad Bazaar
Chinese people at the Yangiabad Market
Interest in antiques among Chinese buyers is becoming a noticeable trend. For many of them, such markets are a real treasure trove of rare items. They are looking not only for porcelain, but also for metal, old books and other cultural values. Sellers note that the Chinese are eager to buy unique items, and their presence creates an international buzz around the market.
Eric Li (Hui Li), CEO of the Hellenic Investment Fund, spoke about the uniqueness of Uzbek antiques and explained why this market attracts Chinese investors.
Uzbekistan as an antique market hub for the Chinese
Eric Li noted that Uzbekistan has a large antique market where genuine art objects are sold that represent local culture and history.
“Almost everything sold at this bazaar is genuine. They are not fakes. So all antiques have value. Locals often do not realize their value, but over time it certainly increases because they are rare,” he emphasized.
Antiques not only reflect cultural heritage, but also become valuable assets that can be liquidated through auctions.
Why do the Chinese buy antiques in Uzbekistan?
Eric Li explains that Chinese buyers see antiques in Uzbekistan as a way to preserve wealth. In the context of an unstable economy and restrictions related to government regulation, investing in historical values is becoming an alternative to traditional assets such as real estate or bank deposits.
“We have noticed that the Chinese buy more things in Uzbekistan than in other countries. This is mainly for wealth preservation. Either you put your money in the bank, or in real estate, or in something that can store value. Very often, this is antiques,” Eric Li noted.
The Role of the Cultural Revolution in Shaping Chinese Demand for Uzbek Goods
Eric Li also linked the current interest of the Chinese in antiques with the consequences of the Cultural Revolution, which led to the mass destruction of historical and cultural values in China.
“During the Cultural Revolution, many beautiful and valuable things were destroyed. People will look back on that period of history and it will be perceived as a catastrophe. Preserving historical sites in Uzbekistan provides an opportunity not only to invest, but also to appreciate the lost aspects of cult ury,” he added.
Investing in Antiques: A Look into the Future
Eric Li believes that the antiques market will continue to grow, especially in countries with a rich historical heritage, such as Uzbekistan.
“Antiques are not only art, but also a strategic asset that becomes more valuable over time,” he says.
According to Li, Chinese buyers view antiques not only as part of their heritage, but also as a tool for preserving and increasing wealth.
Why and How Do Uzbeks Give Away Their Cultural Treasures?
Life at the Yangiabad Market: 20 Years of Trading
The Yangiabad Market in Tashkent is not just a place of trade, but a part of the city’s cultural heritage. For many local sellers, this is not just a job, but a whole life connected with the market.
“We have been doing this for 20 years. We sell various goods: antiques, souvenirs, clothes, blankets and much more. People bring things, we buy them, and then put them up for sale,” says one of the sellers.
How trade is organized in Yangiabad
Most things are brought to the market by local residents. Some get rid of unnecessary things, others hope to make money on antiques or rare items.
“They bring things, and we search for them ourselves. People bring things from home, we buy them. Then we put them up for sale,” explains the seller.
The market remains a profitable place for trade. Sellers share that success depends on how profitably they manage to buy goods.
“If we buy goods at a low price, then the profit can be good. I won’t brag too much, but about half remains net profit,” says the seller.
This balance between accessibility and uniqueness allows the market to remain popular among a wide range of buyers.
Old and new items on the market: which are more popular?
In addition to antiques, the market offers a variety of goods, including plates, cups, clothes, and even modern Chinese frying pans. However, old items are in demand among a limited circle of buyers.
“There are different ones. Plates, cups, antique vases. For example, frying pans from China are new. Old things are bought less often, but sometimes they are still bought. Someone comes, finds something unusual and leaves satisfied,” the seller explains.
Trends among local buyers
While foreigners are actively interested in antiques, local residents are increasingly choosing new things. This is due to changes in tastes and preferences.
“Our locals buy old things less often, they focus more on new goods,” the seller notes.
Nevertheless, antique items continue to find their buyers, especially among those who value history and uniqueness.
Low prices for goods in Yangiabad: accessibility for buyers
You can find goods for any budget at the Yangiabad market. However, the cost of rare items remains high, and not every buyer can afford them.
“It all depends on the person’s capabilities. Those who can afford it, buy for the price we offer. Those who cannot, we find cheaper options. We try to help each buyer find what they need,” the seller assures.
This flexibility allows the market to remain popular among a wide variety of visitors. Everyone can find something for themselves here.
Stories of Yangiabad Market Sellers: Vintage Chapans, Suzanis, Carpets, and Mummies
The Yangiabad Market in Tashkent is known for its unusual exhibits. Here you can find items that are usually only seen in museums, but are now available to everyone. Mummified bears, vintage cauldrons, and traditional Uzbek Suzanis — all of this can not only be seen, but also purchased.
“Here we have a mummified bear paw. Previously, such things could only be seen in museums, but now they appear here too. Here you can come up, touch it, and even take a photo next to it. Museums don’t have such opportunities. It now costs 25 million soums. Have you seen a real bear? These are mummified and treated with special preparations. If not treated, the fur falls out, so such things require care. We preserve them the same way they do in museums,” says one of the sellers.
Traditional art and the USSR era in Yangiabad
Among the goods, you can find traditional Uzbek suzani from Samarkand and Tashkent, as well as hand-painted paintings. For visitors who are interested in textiles and local art and fashion these woven wonders are the main attraction.
“We have Uzbek suzani. This one, for example, is from Samarkand, and this one is from Tashkent. We also have paintings, and all of them are hand-painted. This miniature, for example, takes more than five minutes of work, as they say yat, this is already a museum level. We try to preserve such things, because they are not only beautiful, but also historically important,” the seller shares.
Uzbekistan is a haven for enthusiasts of the USSR and this market offers them an opportunity to own some of these remnants, such as old radios, televisions and other household items aas well as a cosmonaught helmet. These goods have valye beyond the historical and cultural but are a portal to the past.
“Here we have not only national things, but also those that are reminiscent of the USSR era. These are radios, televisions and other items. We have a lot of such old things, some of them are 100-250 years old,” he adds.
Historical cauldrons: national pride Uzbeks
One of the most valuable categories of goods are antique Kazans (cauldrons) that were used in different regions of Uzbekistan. Some of them date back to the 19th century and retain their functionality and uniqueness.
“Here, for example, are kazans (cauldrons). They are at least 150 years old, and some are 250. These are all historical things. They used to be buried in the ground to preserve them. You can still find them in Kashkadarya and Surkhandarya. But in Bukhara, they still make dishes in the traditional way. We preserve these items because they convey the spirit of the times,” the seller explains.
Restoration and a second wind of things at Yangiabad
For film enthusiasts you can find old film set decorations, cameras and even some film and old photos. For example, items used in films are brought here, which are restored or preserved as exhibits.
“For example, once they brought us a broken arm of a bear used for filming. They could not pay for it in full, so they left it with us. We preserve such things, restore them if possible,” the seller says.
Yangiabad Market and Tourists
Foreigners and the Development of Yangiabad Market
With the increase in the flow of tourists to Uzbekistan, interest in the Yangiabad Market has grown significantly. Antique items, such as old watches and coins, find buyers among foreign collectors. This is due to large-scale efforts to develop tourism in the country.
“After our president began to develop tourism, there were many more foreigners. That is why they are interested in antiques. For example, old things sometimes sell for eighty thousand soums. When filming is going on, trade is especially active,” the seller shares.
These changes have significantly increased the demand for antique goods, which previously often went unnoticed by local buyers. Sellers are proud to offer buyers unique finds, which are often brought by the locals themselves.
“Sometimes people bring them themselves, sometimes we have things from collections left. We collect some items for years and then put them up for sale,” another seller explains.
Such items include coins from different countries, antique watches and other rarities.
“For example, do you see this watch? It is handmade, really high-quality work. Collectors are interested in such things. Here are more coins - different ones, from Italy, America, France, Germany. Foreigners love to collect such things,” he adds.
The Yangiabad market is not just a place for trade, it is a reflection of changes in society and culture. The development of tourism has opened it up to foreigners who are actively interested in antiques and rare finds. For locals, the market remains a part of everyday life, where old and new merge into a unique flavor.
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